So much choice Johnny wonders what to climb next
I took advantage of the lovely weather on Tuesday and escaped the cabin fever of the house and headed to Eavestone between Pateley Bridge and Ripon. I had a meeting with the HVS of Wedgewood after my previous attempt ended in me bottling it near the top and escaping onto a nearby severe.
A swift escape from Leeds we arrived at the deserted crag in the wood. This place is so wooded you can't see the crags until you're within 20m of them. My main objective was a trek along the south- western banks of the Eavestone Lake which were blocked for the first time i remember with a "private property keep out" sign. I cannot read and so walked under the rope and carried on to the crag, We arrived at a buttress which i thought was something else, eying up a crack thinking. that looks good for HVS. only later when I realised this was the Eavestone had i discovered it was actually E4 and a thrutchy one!
The 'inspiring' line of Wedgewood lower half climbs the blank wall
I set to work on Wedgewood, a climb of two halves, the lower halve a bold and pretty much bar a dodgy wire unprotected slab. It is green and was more worrying than in remembered.The upper section is where I was most concerned as I had bottled it half way through the sequence previously. It is deceptively pumpy, well protected but pumpy but eventually the jungle covered top out was reached. Remembering beta from Jim I frantically felt around for the lucky hold, and there it was a beautiful tree root, bigger than the one Jim snapped last time. Brilliant! with that done. I'm into single figures in the hunt for 3 * glory!
Nest up Johnny led the 2* Severe called the Heel next to it, a crack which was actually really good climbing if a bit dirty and with even bigger roots crucial to the top out.
Swinging free E2 5b traverses the lip below the roof and mantles out at the end.
We decided to go for a walk over to the Prow to check out a well written up route called Swinging free which goes at E2, i have since found out that Ali soloed this and have to take my hat off to him as this would take some sever balls, it looks fine from below but involves traversing flat holds with no feet followed my an exposed mantle. No thanks! But we did find a 1* E1 called Going Catatonic which involved some hard 5c moves off a small undercut hold and go-go gadget moves to reach a break and gear. Its probably more a highball boulder problems but dispatched it and really enjoyed it.
Going Catatonic climbs the face to the right of the crack and Allycracker is the crack
Next Johnny manned up for a lead of Allycracker a tough looking HVS 5b crack next to the E1. Johnny battled well but the pump took over and after I had convinced him to keep trying and therefore placer higher and higher gear I could do what any good mate would do and take over the lead but with oodles of previously placed gear. It was a different proposition, I would have got so pumped placing all that gear and so it was10times easier. Entering the upper crack felt similar to beeline, jams which actually fell out at crucial points but the top was gained, more gardening including throwing a 6 ft branch at Johnny and we'd done.
Johnny fixing gear up the route of Allycracker ready for my pink point ascent
Final route of the day Johnny got on the 3* route of Spinnaker a route I had previously given a bad write up in my guidebook, but i take it back it was superb, a brilliant position for any severe, with good climbing. the descent was spicey but made it down and then headed back to the car out of the magical place that is Eavestone and home for tea and medals.
A time lapse of Spinnaker
I will definitely come back to Eavestone, approached optimistically and with a view to 1 and 2* routes and not just cherry picking the best you can have a brilliant day. Eavestone wall looks amazing and I need to get on The Alamo so I will definitely be back with a new tick-list for the crag!
Its fun being at a new crag - come to Eavestone climb the 1 and 2* routes you will not be disappointed
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