After a slab up Wetherspoons breakfast at Jim's local eatery we headed out to Curbar. It was pretty late when we arrived and I was starting to regret the macho talk over beers and between power naps of crushing Peapod, especially when I saw it and was reminded of its reputation. We warmed up on the boulders near track-side the most over-rated 7a in the world but its in the peak and not 7a so it would be wouldn't it. Saying that I couldn't do it today as perhaps its a little conditions dependent. We did a few random problems including a brilliant little mantle problem that's easy but fun and head up to the crag, Ali warmed up on some E1 and I went to do Avalanche wall as its HVS and described as 'soft' It was good value that's for sure and thought probably fair for HVS, maybe this should have made me realise that Curbar was not the soft touch peak I had learned to love when wanting an ego massage. Had a little look at Kayak my first E2 from many moons ago and looked at some of the harder variants hereabouts which look great and maybe would be even better in winter above snow? Jamie manned up and went for Peapod, Ali and Tash were on some random E2 having stroked the starting holds of right eliminate but given up on that. Jamie gave a hell of a battle and having placed gear at the top of the crack his foot popped. I persuaded him to lower and pull the ropes for a pink point which he did and got rested for his attempt. This go Jim battled on and succeeded - quite an effort I wasn't looking forward to seconding it.
Following with a nice rope above my head I was impressed with Jim's lead it was bloody hard and awkward, making upwards progress was very difficult and insecure but eventually i made it to the flat hold, swinging around onto this I couldn't find a foot hold, pumped out and hung on the rope. I rested had another go found a better hold and then just managed to mantle onto the ledge. I was absolutely boxed! the moves above were easy but felt difficult with the level of pump. Good effort Jim.
Time was up so we head back, plans were made for possible western grit but didn't happen. too much wedding planning!! Congratulations Ali and Tash really pleased for you both!
Sunday, 14 August 2011
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