Last of the esoterica... almost!

 

Peering into the rift a fault at the crag with a load of big routes 

 The crack of Squirrel crack the roofs to the left are unclimbed. Awesome line all 23m of it

It's been over a month since my last post and indeed since my last climb so it was with a minor worry that at 4p.m, Jim arrived and we headed off to the might Hawkcliffe, a lesser known Guisecliff crossed with Eavestone between Keighley and Skipton. The focus was the classic 3* E1 of Squirrel crack "the overhanging prow provides an impressive and daunting route" - I was worried.

I had visited Hawkcliffe some years back and battled to find Squirrel crack, ended up soloing the 2* S of Brian's crack and vowed to return. Today it was considerably more overgrown than i remembered but my previous recce was useful as we found the bottom of the route fairly easily.

Jamie surrendered the first lead to me (thanks mate !!!) which was fair enough as he had the onsights at Guisecliff. I warmed up by hanging off a block and then set off up the easy looking starting blocks. 1st impressions were that it was a bit dirty and seemed harder than i had expected. Arriving higher up i launched up the brilliant curving layback crack and found myself on the pedestal below the overhanging chimney - the main event. Much up and down udging happened before i had gear high and eventually felt ready to launch into the crack, it was steep but a determined approach some sloppy jams, lots of udging and a few little crimps enabled a good hold to be gained. A few more delicate but easy moves and I was scrambling over the top. Awesome! I came down, belayed Jim who climbed it in a more udgey style but successfully and finally seconded him to get the gear back, seconding seemed so much easier than leading it. I'm pretty pleased as this was one of the unknown 3*'s we no nobody that had climbed it short of Dave Musgrove and after a month off the climbing it had gone.

We checked out the other climbing hereabouts and spied a brilliant E2 slab called Blumm Gumm Sloggitt and an amazing prow called Driveby (E6 mind).

Now a message to anybody who likes grit, definitely go and climb this route - it is very very good and worth the trip, the climbing is superb, varied and always interesting!

Received a text that the big dog is going to be back in town so will hopefully get some good stuff done in next few weeks.

 Jim getting ready for the battle on Squirrel crack

  

Jim getting stuck into the crack (quite literally!)

 Jim worried but free of the overhanging chimney - nearly there

 

 

A view of the Blood on the shamrock an awesome knife blade arete but at E6!