Sunday and we headed to the planned destination of yesterday - Crookrise. Walking in i noticed a sign that aid it was actually shut on Saturday for shooting so good job we didn't try and go. The walk in was as annoying as always but we eventually arrived at the base of Hovis an E1 funnily enough on the 3* list that i knew was hard! We warmed up on the overhanging sadcocs boulder which was superb with an excellent pumpy traverse. Perhaps a little too pumpy but I was certainly warmed up after that. We went over to Hovis and I had a stab, jumping off onto a pad I had a rethink and on my third attempt I found myself rocking over and holding the flake and stepping up to the good hold. Its a really tricky move that and the key to the route. I'm glad i had the mat as its really fall-offable. The gear in the slot is amazing - totally bomber cam. moves up the groove lead to a nut placement and then easy moves to top out. A brilliant route - i was pretty pleased with it and dropped the ropes for Jim's attempt. Jim got it 2nd go and cruised it too. Seconding i totally messed up the lower sequence but managed to somehow crimp on nothing and get myself through it. Some other people arrived to climb so we quickly put the mats away so they didn't look down at us and went over to Long climb a MVS on the list. It was a fairly so-so crack with a so called stomach traverse which was actually a walk along a ledge - certainly not 3* material - and I should know! We called it a day and headed home.
PHOTOS TO FOLLOW
Sunday, 21 August 2011
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