Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Sunday, 27 May 2012

Getting back into good habits.

Since my last update a lot has happened. At the end of May I explored the pub quarry at Ilkley - i was impressed that although dirty the climbing was good value. the arete on the left felt great but it was too hot and i didn't have the balls so will have to return with more mats and spotters. Not sure how i will trick anybody there though.

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I then had virtually 2 months off climbing because of various things, a bit of work to finish off before i finish my job and too much partying perhaps. Eventually though following a succesful few trips for Jamie climbing the Waster at the Chevin after taking the fall that  had prior on but coming back he crushed. I had a go a the Gronff: well felt the holds - its scary the thought of cutting loose but it feels positive and probably right up my street. I may go back it would be a lovely way to wrap up my relationship with the chevin.. maybe when i'm starting to feel that i'm going well and have a bit more in reserve. Jim also got on thin red line crushing it - seconding it i was shocked that i had ever led it - perhaps i was going a lot better in the past.. hmmm. despite this i stepped up at Heptonstall and went for a feel of the legendary Forked Lightning crack a mighty E2 crack that rules the quarry. My intention had been to go and have a look. I was so intimidated standing at the base of the crack i put in loads of gear but never manned up to move on up.. Looks superb though and i still think i will one day have a proper go. The problem is it is so commiting and not reversible in the start. if you go you go.. strenuous laybacking.! hmmm.. anyway we then headed to Widdop and Jamie completed his last but one 3* route, artifical route which i had done last year, I soloed it when i did it and seconding it this time once again i was a little shocked with myself. More and more i'm realisng confidence is the big lack at the moment. Still at the end of this we had only 1 3* route each to do. and for that it deserves its very own post.

Jim on artificial route Widdop



1 more to go

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