The 3* way to gritstone heaven

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This was the day we had been waiting for since starting to believe the 3* list E1 and below was going to be achievable. The finale required a special rule, every other route we had both led or soloed this route the NW Girdle of the mighty Almscliff crag we conceded alt leads were the way to go.a 3* E1, a hard grit tick, what great way it would be to end the list..

We also headed out early a shock in itself but also mid-wee, Jim too a day off work - i didn't have to being a bit work shy and all that. We warmed up on our  own things, i opted for the SW face traverse that i did a few times then opted for some solos of Bird Nest, fluted columns and the nose for old times sake - the soloing bug was there - i really liked it and it started to boost my confidence. We stepped over to the main event, deciding pitches via a game of rock paper-scissors i 'won' pitches 1 and 3, i was quite pleased about this if i'm honest mainly because i didn't have to reverse great western but i did get the crux pitch (pitch 3) crossing the top f wall of horrors, quite exciting because i hadn't been there before. A previously unexplored bit of the crag for me.

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Racking up, the rack was looking quite big, lots of duplicates, we felt this might be necessary because of the need to make belays etc. Launching up z climb, i quickly remember back to this pokey VS and how tough it was, i bouldered out the 1st part of the Z, placed a bit of gear and we were off. approaching the top of Z climb before it kicks back left, the first bit of new ground, traversing right across central climb, some new climbing , we were making progress in the right direction (sideways) bring me to a hand traverse crack leading into Parson's chimney, this needed to be rapid, i placed gear before entering and had to lean back to place some high gear to protect Jim as this was the first bit of pump. I settled into the belay and had to call down for more big gear reinforcements to bolster the already large yosemite style rack. Jim followed and set off confidently on the 2nd pitch crossing overhanging groove and descending to the pulpit. He opted to go to the pulpit quite rightly rather than the green awful round looking crack that you can take to the top of long chimney and is listed as a variation pitch anyway so technically not part of the 3* experience.  When i eventually got to the descent onto the pulpit I have to say i was a bit horrified by the unprotected for2nd move across a grimey green slab With some encouragement from Jim and with the thought of a horribefall into the pulpit in front of a picnicking family i summoned the courage to do the thin moves onto the pulpit and racked up and rested. Looking at the thin traverse into long chimney i was a little concerned how the hell to do it but opted for the ha  traverse which actually involved stretching out and swinging your feet across, once long chimney is met, i scurried up t the top, ready fory appointment with the wall of horrors traverse. It took a while to psyche myself up to get onto this traverse into the unknown but eventually i stepped out and on mediocre holds made it across beneath the capping roof to the goodish holds. placing gear i pushed on but i was sweating bad wearing a fleece seemed a bad idea, getting rapidly pumped and scared on the small hold and slopey pinches i chickened out and tried to reverse back to long chimney for a rest. i pulled a pebble off crimping too hard, god knows why i was crimping. there was a jug next to it. i made it almost back and bham.. i was off. I swung across and back to the pulpit to depump, disappointed and pretty tired. I really thought that i was done. how could i fail so close to victory.  Eventually i ventured back onwards and upwards and a bit sidewards. Summoning the courage to launch out again I was very sceptical that i could do it but pushed on. With a little more thought about the holds and keeping the momentum up i was rapidly through the crux and onto the wide crack that leads to the great western belay. I couldn't have done it before i was crimping quite hard on this attempt, difficult to protect for Jim, i reached back and placed some roey cams and made my way to perch on the great western feeling the end was in sight and back into familiar territory. It was very weird though the last bit to great wetsre was easy but eterrain i had never even seen before. Brilliant! Jim followed, swapping gear over on the belay was shall we say interesting but after a bit of manoeuvring Jim, started the descent to great western in reverse. i pleaded for lots of gear as I was really intimidated by this pitch which he duly delivered. Soon jim was sat up on the pedestal above crack of doom and i followed. the reversal of great western was easier than i imagined and crack of doom although hurried rapidly gave in, we stood on top having completed our challenge.  What a great route. Definitely the only way to end a challenge like this.Superb, finding new Rock on a crag i've come to know and love in my 11 or so years on Yorkshire grit. My 1st route in Yorkshire and really my entry into serious rock climbing was flake climb at Ikley with Tim Kavanagh a 3* S 4a. I remember scoffing at some people on a LUMC trip in 200 who were working through the 3* list, i eat my words. A worthy way to finish the challenge.

Next thoughts what next. well the problem with the E2 routes which i have  a few under the belt was always layby arete because its V9 or something crazy and not E2. So i have a plan to wait until the new guidebook is out which should be xmas time and go from there. there may be some new E1's and below but hopefully layby will be in the boulder section and then i'll start again. Whatever happens i want to build some confidence this year again and get back into it. Later in the day after a celebratory beer I thought i'd get on Black wall eliminate but Dunc was a while coming out and by the time he got there i was half a sleep i did Black wall and was pumped stupid at the top, i was glad not to have  got on the E2 but feel ths might be the season to finally put it to rest.