Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Saturday, 1 January 2011

Limestone plans


Well what a crap week for climbing. I'm ill now so even though it was dry today, no rock for me :o(

After much UKC browsing and Limestone book flicking i have worked out a few routes and potential projects in the upto E3 and upto F7b range.

Blue Scar is where i most want to visit - it sounds amazing A few of the sport routes on list are Pillar Talk F7a, Rattletrap F7a and Time out of Mind F7a+. I think looking at the book, late summer seems to be the time this place comes in so will have to wait.
Dib Scar seems to have a number of 7a's with a couple of stars and sounds like my sort of thing, I travel only gets 1* but is "hard cruxs with good rests" so right up my street for an early 7a send?

Giggleswick south, home to lots of nice low grade stuff - i flagged up a potential project Silent Laughter F7b sounds and looks right up my street - quality face climbing. Will have to go and have a look and see if i'm scared by the prospect.

My excitement over Gordale on perusing the guidebook was slightly let down by the sport available for a lowly punter like me but the trad looks amazing, on the list are Face route E3 aspirational and Cabaret a brilliant looking E2 traverse above the waterfall - keen to get on this as soon as it gets some sun.
Robin Proctors's shows great promise with buckets of grade 6 and 7as and along with Trow Gill seems to be the place to visit early this year.

Malham is off the list - untill i climb 7b i think its a bit futile and i suspect from what i've read I'll be dissapointed by the 7a's.

So thats it - any opinions welcomed, shame its going to be a while until the conditions are right to head out. Time to get out bouldering... well if i feel better tomorrow.

1 comment:

ali said...

don't dismiss malham. yosemite wall and appetite etc on left side are awesome!