Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Sunday, 23 January 2011

1 month on: Shipley Glen

At the end of the fine Leaper Traverse V2

Exactly a month since the last time i climbed (if you can call scrambling up snowy Strans Gill a climb) I have actually got some sends to report.

Headed out in the afternoon to meet Huw - i must have been psyched as I arrived before him so warmed up on the really nice Leaper Traverse problem below the car park which goes at V2. It took me quite a few goes which was worrying but eventually i managed it with some devious toe trickery and actually looking for the foot holds. Really nice problem!




Huw on the greasy Manson's Wall (Phil's Wall to the right)

Huw arrived and decided he needed to warm up on the rather fine Manson's Wall. We stacked pads, pulled on but after a few failed attempts we decreed that the holds were too greasy. Pushing the pads across onto Phil's Wall I decided that i needed a tick of some description so got back on Red Baron for the nth time. First go I came very very close to the send but thats always the way when you feel fresh and strong. Huw sent Phil's making it look very easy (worth coming back for!) After some more rubbish attempts on Reb Baron i remembered my sequence and said " this is going to be the go". Found my self matching the arete and at the top. Pleased because the month off hasn't zapped too much strength. Would be good to get some new stuff done though as it seems i'm just repeating stuff at the moment.

Setting off up Red Baron for the 4th send (Font 7a+)

We walked over to Millstone Grit to have a look. It was pretty green and then started to rain. Needs a bit of a clean chalk up and a stack of pads, but worthy of a return. Perhaps next weekend if the weather gods are kind!


Peering over the edge of Millstone Grit (Font 7b) note bouldering pads sheltering from rain, Pretty Highball - want conditions on our side!

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