Climbing 2011

So 2010 seems to have been about less trad, less sport and more bouldering. The trad i can account for by the lack of a 100 routes in a day as I did in 2009 but the sport seems to be a bit disappointing seen as i have only logged one actually sport climb for the year compared with 63 last year. So much for new years resolutions to climb French 7b. Perhaps that’s the reason why I didn’t manage it. Coz i never tried. Bouldering I was particularly pleased with getting Red Baron on Valentines day with Jo’s approval and subsequent repeats.

Enough of looking back and its time to think about what i can achieve in 2011. I have a number of foci on grit, bouldering V8 or above, odd bits of trad at random venues, Hetchell and the 3* routes E1 and below must fall this year, trips to Lord’s seat are imminent – there are twenty 3* routes remaining on the list which must be done before the new guide is out November time?.

I need some good bouldering projects too, I have a few short term things like the Anchor at Brimham, Olicana arête at Ilkley, and some more aspirational ones, Baby spice, Underhand and Stu’s Left hand . But the more the merrier, time to browse the guide again me thinks.

The main aim for 2011 has to be Yorkshire Limestone. I have said this many times before but my trip to Gordale a couple of weeks back admittedly to climb a frozen waterfall reminded me how amazing Yorkshire is. There are tons of routes and crags that i have literally never even seen. My plan is to combine trad and sport and use the sport to get my stamina up for some of the harder trad stuff.

Crags i am desperate to visit include: Gordale Scar, Blue scar (which looks amazing) Giggleswick, Hull pot for something esoteric , Attermire to try some of the sport and get some of the 3* trad. Dib scar for a real mix. I haven’t really got a routes ticklist yet as I haven’t seen the places but will build it up as and when i visit the places.

Bizarely when i climb sport i get scared but trad less so, so i hope if i can get over this irrational fear i can step my game up to the next level. After work climbing i hope to be prominent on the agenda, grabbing opportunities after work are always the most satisfying and good for motivation.

I am not going to set myself grade targets for sport on the limestone as i just want to get mileage on it. But on the grit I aim to climb V8 and also E4 on any rock this year, achievable targets if i focus my efforts on a. ) a particular problem and b.) sort my stamina out for the harder routes.