Caley Roadside -projects

Huw on my best tick of the day Forked Lightning Crack V4 6b

Today i didn't get out of bed until late. Decided after walking around Penyghent in the dark last night i deserved a lie in. Thankfully i managed to navigate between points fine so i passed. It was slightly handy having been up there before one summer to attempt all the routes in a day that i could remember bits and pieces. So today i met Huw at Caley roadside, warmed up on some easy slabs and did Forked lightning crack a bit of a nuisance climb for me as i can never remember the sequence. I worked out i need to jam my finger in he crack but by reversing my hand so it cammed in. Once i sussed this it was quickly dispatched because it all became very static albeit quite painful hanging off a single finger lock.

Huw was keen to get on Ben's Groove and the sight of a guy with the most amazing fold uppable ladder brushing all the top holds convince him that this would be his best chance. There were literally hundreds (well 10 or so) people hanging around and i decided that i really couldn't be doing with big 'wad' crowds especially because i always feel more punterish than normal.

Had a look at Ju Ju club but it was too powerful so went to sulk.. i mean recce the boulders over neat the Bat Cave. I found a neat looking problem called Just the one a V8 6c but only a few moves. from a mono and hand on the arete you basically pull on and slap.. Well basically i spent 20 minutes scraping my arse across the floor until i realised i was very cold so lowered my game plan a bit and did 3 very nice 4b slabs that were opposite and very easy. But at least the blood started flowing again. Tried again and managed to pull on for approximately 0.5 ms before i decided that perhaps it was not for me today.

I wandered back over to Ben's Groove to receive a text from Huw proclaiming he'd sent it first go, he persuaded me to have a go because the masses had spread out. Put on my shoes not much look until magic beta from a passing crowd member suggested i do some weird cross flagging thing with my leg. It was the most amazing piece of beta ever because all of a sudden the impossible became L'static! and i got the slopey boss. Nobody around to give me any magic tricks for the next move i gave up.

Crossing my legs to do the move on Ben's Groove V8. Down jacket on it was cold - fluffed the move going right to the pocket. Project!

Had a play on Secret 7th, by all account being lanky will help me on this one as i can virtually reach the top of the boulder from the ground and finally had a play on Blockbuster. Celeb spotting, Mrs Buys was trying it and welcomed our 4 pads, although eventually we agreed 2 was sufficient, Huw pulled on using the high crimp method and crushed it. Another 7b.. What a day for the big man Jenkins!! Well done mate! He seemed bit dejected because he wants to do it the proper way for 7c.. but good effort whatever! I floundered a bit and then decided to go home to save my dignity. So not particularly successful a day for me, pleased for Huw but at least the possibility of a few 7b projects has been opened up to me and on my local crag so not a bad thing. Half way through the day i tried to flog my pads to Huw and give up bouldering but maybe psyche levels are returning; may go to Norwood tomorrow - we shall see.