Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Tuesday, 14 June 2011

Sweaty Snowden

After work i met Huw up at Snowden Crags - we went here as it is very very close to work and has loads of good 7's to try as published in the new volume 2 bouldering guide.


We went straight to the area of Nigel's roof and got straight on the 7a of Nigel's left hand. I couldn't even pull on so did a few Font 4's which were OK and got the blood flowing. Eventually after using my smartphone and the wonderful resource that is Yorkshire grit we worked out a way of pulling on and we started move by eyeing Nigel's foot positions.

Soon we had found a way out to the lip and up to a reasonable pocket but progress was shut down. Working various combinations a change of tactic and a sneaky left heel enabled higher ground, good holds and crucially the dodgy mantel last move to be got. I had linked it mostly to the final 2 moves but when i went for my attempt I was too tired and ripped a chunk out of my hand on the slopey boss. I decided to sack it and plan to come back when colder or with a breeze as i think this should go easily now I have the beta.



I really enjoyed the hour or so playing, It is just the ideal problem, achievable  but requires lots of figuring out - its one of the things i really enjoy about climbing and especially bouldering making incremental progress and slowly success being realised. Next week I'll head up and have another go when a bit fresher.




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