Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Thursday, 2 June 2011

Greensleeves

 The fine views over to Heptonstall make Horsehold Scout a nice place to be

Today i ventured over to the borderlands and Todmorden to finish off some 3* ticking in the strange province of Hebden Bridge. I went to visit the supposed mainstream crag known as Horsehold scout that sits high on the hill above Hebden Bridge. a solitary 3* route exists here amongst a load of crap but must be done. The first hurdle was finding the crag - i should read the guidebook properly next time - I found a crag and climbed something that i convinced myself was greensleeves (green slabs) was pretty un-impressed when i got to the top so i decided to check the guide again - good job as the description of finding the crag was very clearly not this buttress . I had climbed on the scout and done some random route or combination of routes. I found it pretty sharpish and was immediately impressed with how big it looked. the line looked pretty good following a series of slabs and exiting into a crack.
 Greensleeves follows the slabs on the right of this buttress

 My first view of the crag - Quite impressed at its size.


The slabs were fine if a bit dirty and i found myself high up at the mantelshelf that Jamie had warned me of. It was pretty worrying as I was on solo but dispatched it to be welcomed with another harder one.. doh! The route was a great line but sadly a very neglected crag. I decided not to climb anything else here and made it back to the car for a drive up to Widdop and my next engagement.

The drive to Widdop seemed much further than i remembered and i found myself at the base of Artificial route - i set my camera up and filmed my ascent. I was put off for a few minutes after reading of gear on what i thought was a solo but I manned up and found good holds all the way to the top with them getting even better when you needed them. A pretty good route despite the fact that it is a chip fest - It would have been a great slab climb without.



A super fast video of me on Artificial route
Basking in glory I had a go at a 7b .. Fight on black that Huw had told me about but couldn't do the moves as it was pretty hot and i wasn't warmed up. i repeated Splashdown after a few attempts and called it a day after a few attempts at a 6c/ 7a+ depending who you believe to the right which i reckon i can do pretty easily  if i had better conditions as its just pulling on small crimps.

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