Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Sunday, 5 June 2011

Big ticks at a big crag.

The top section of the brilliant north wall eliminate. Jamie emerging from the tree

We had a leisurely start and so myself and Jim made our way to the excellent Guisecliff for a third time (more than most people can claim to have been) and a rendezvous with the two HVS's of Comet Wall which i had seconded previously and the lost but not forgotten North Wall Eliminate. Last time we visited despite having a topo we could not find this climb but funnily enough it was right under our eyes and didn't want to believe the horrible truth.

We abseiled in and I got to work on Comet Wall as a warm up. It was much drier than our previous visit when Jamie led it, i think some of our gardening may have helped the lower cracks dry out as there was no longer any moss to be seen. It wasn't perfectly clean but i made rapid progress to the third height ledge where the fun really begins. Stepping left with amazing holds and no worries whatsoever is a great feeling especially as you emerge onto the arete, a good stance and lots of clean rock. Some stiff layback pulls and high rock overs led to the top and fairly effortlessly another 3* route done.
The line of comet wall. the fun starts under the roof and moving left from there

 The lower part of Comet Wall now quite dry - photo here just for reference.
 
Next was to get on NWall Eliminate. Jamie led it, placing the gear and i led it after him with pre-placed runners in order to save time as it was getting on. Pink-pointing is not an ideal way of climbing a route like this, a lot of the worry is gone as you don;t have to select the correct runner but i made sure that i paused at each runner, sometimes removing and replacing and carried a rack in order that i felt that i had climbed the route in reasonable style. I will describe the route for any other thrill-seekers. The route starts up the imaginatively named Brian's climb which is essentially a massive chimney with lots of filth in it. Its pretty unimpressive until about half height when you get to traverse right with brilliant undercuts passing  a squarking birds nest and emerging half in a tree and half on the very exposed arete.
Ascending the unimpressive Brian's climb just before the birds nest and traverse right

Here gear can be arranged and you launch up on Tufa like holds, its like fluting paradise. Imagine Thailand and all the Tufa there now transplant it to Yorkshire, change it to Gritstone, make it cold and windy and a few less lady -boys and you are there. Awesome position, awesome holds that you HAVE to go and climb on and a brilliant view from the top. Not sustained like Comet Wall, I'd argue not as good but cool exposure.
Looking down North Wall eliminate - lots of lovely holds to be had and great exposure

So we celebrated with ginger nuts in a piri-piri sauce which bizarrely worked and then went to check out some of the boulders. As we found them it started to rain but vowed to come back especially during windy weather as it was very much sheltered. Not finished with Guisecliff yet, we also spottedthe North Buttress with some very appealing lines, clean and jamtastic. We'll be back!

Eleven to go!

 Celebrating with ginger nuts in a piri-piri sauce

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