Brimham 3: Matt 1

I met up with Huw and we headed over to Brimham, I had one target in mind (the Anchor) and headed straight for it. Warming up on the problem, I was catching the top of the block on my 2nd go. However despite feeling strong, I could not get my foot onto the anchor or heel on. I managed the heel cocked over from standing which seemed like a good method.

In fact the only thing other than this heel that I'd managed different to last time was to rip chunks out of some different fingers to last time. Disappointed but not wanting to rob Huw of his day out spotting me; we headed over to the 7a+ of Fantasy League. It was windy up here, apparently there had been a 120mph gust on Cairngorm the night before, it wasn't that bad here but it was certainly putting the chills up me. It wasn't fun trying to work this one because taking the down off was as much effort as actually pulling on. After a few goes and not masses of progress or enthusiasm by me and more progress but getting shut down in the same place as before, we sacked it. Huw citing the now very eroded hold on the arete as the main problem. I would be keen to try it properly but would prefer slightly more relaxed conditions than the wind offered. We also had a look at Dreamcast another on my list but wasn't that impressed by this either.

Next we wandered over towards the Hidden roof area for there us a 7a+ traverse spotted in the guide, It looked quite good with some interesting holds but probably for a cold day and for when on your tod. We had a go at a straight up problem Hidden Wall (6a+), a traditional straight up problem, Huw worked it out first, I then did it and repeated it for the video.. as Huw said not the technique you'd expect from an aspirant 7b climber..

We wandered over to Heart shape slab, Huw had never climbed on this before which I was amazed by. I don;t think he was impressed by the look of the mantley problems on the front but we got drawn into the 6c+ of Heart shaped slab. Eventually we worked out a combination of starting holds and a craft toe-heel to get both hands on the arete but got shut down by a lack of time and day light. A great problem which I will definitely return for soon.

So one tick but lots of stuff to go at.
Huw dropped me off at Norwood car park as we have started meeting on the way to save driving, waving Huw off I should have known better. the car wouldn't start. It was dark and scary in those woods but 2 hours later Mr RAC man had fixed the Mauritius and so the dream lives one.