Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Saturday, 15 October 2011

Training MK1

So I had a go at the fingerboarding i promised myself a few weeks ago and the verdict is... Its hard!

My resin fingerboard it is pretty tough on the skin. Holds numbered Row A- B - C going up and 1-2-3.. going L to right

I had got the intial base plan from http://info.rockrun.com/articles/beastmaker-2000-fingerboard-training-plan.html  but modified it to my board.

It basically involves 7 second hangs with 3 second rests in a variety of different arm locks from 140 degrees- 90 degrees to full lock. You repeat this on 5 different finger/hold combos  rest and do it all again. Well I tried the suggested routine and i don't know if i was a.) too weak, b.) tired or c.) skin hurting too much but I had to downgrade it to a more manageable level so my routine is as follows.

5 seconds - 140 degrees (vertical)
3 seconds - REST
5 seconds - 90 degrees (vertical)
3 seconds - REST
5 seconds - Full Lock
3 seconds - REST

5 seconds - 140 degrees (vertical)
3 seconds - REST
5 seconds - 90 degrees (vertical)
3 seconds - REST
5 seconds - Full Lock

Rep 1: Hold 3 fingers on B2 ( the biggy) - couldn't hold 2 fingers!
3 min rest 
Rep 2: Hold 4 fingers on B2 ( the biggy) 
3 min rest 
Rep 3: Hold 3 fingers on B2 ( the biggy) 
3 min rest
Rep 4: Hold 4 fingers on C2 ( sloper)
3 min rest  
Rep 5: Hold 3 fingers on A3 although i have to admit girling out and using.. yes B2 ( the biggy)

10 min in rest and then do it all again and again.

I managed 2 full sets but admit on the last sets of 90 degree and 140 degree on 3 fingers I am failing. Room to improve - i think its my skin as my muscles and fingers feel fine but skin is killing!
We shall see.






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