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| Me happy at the top of a problem for once |
First day of the holidays and I was keen to get out, I arrange to meet Huw at Brimham whom I hadn't seen in a long time for a catch up a much as anything else. At Brimham there was an area I hadn't climbed on with a 7a and 7b that i thought might be my sort of thing. My thoughts were with huw's beta I might be able to find a project or two. We started on Whiskey galore a 7a groove and touted in some quarters as one of the best on grit, which makes it pretty bad that I hadn't tried it before. I thought it would be balancey and therefore up my street but how wrong can I be. I pulled on and made reasonable progress up to a point where I could just tickle the top but it was absolutely killing the tendons in my right hand as i was pushing of a hold with two fingers, most of my weight were on these fingers and I couldn;t eak out an extra inch to reach the top so I went back to the drawing board, various combinations ultimately ended up with me high on the problem butunable to reach the finishing holds. About to give up I did the old 3 last goes thing. about 5 goes past and for the sheer hell f it I tried something toally different using a totally different sequence I found myself closer than ever to the top but no cigar. a subtle movement of my right foot further out and again tickling the top before success when Huw was taking some photos from above, I threw with my right hand totally hands off but the momentum opposing the direction I was to fall kept me on and i latched the top Result! I repeated it for the video and Huw had a go at my sequence which i think he liked especially the top move, It didn't involve finger strength and felt perfect when I got it. In between all that Huw had a few goes at Titfield thunderbolt to no avail but i might come back for this when i have fresher skin, although again not sure of sequence as a lot of contradictory things about how best to do it.
We headed over to a cool 7a arete problem, I got on it but failed to get the top because my foot wasn't high enough but by this time I had little left in reserve so failed to get as far . return fresh and i think it should go a superb problem albeit with a worrying landing ( although i did come off a few times from high up so it cant be that bad!
So a good day my skin is absolutely trashed my fingers and arms hurt but thats no bad thing as long a i don't get straight on the finger board! Rest day tomorrow and then maybe a quick session Monday!
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| Huw on Titfield thunderbolt 7b |
A previous failed attempt with old beta
More photos at Huw's blog:
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