Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Friday, 15 April 2011

Giggleswick South - Sport climbing!!




So the much awaited first trip to Limestone country arrived yesterday - i met Jenny and headed out to Giggleswick south - there is one route there that i wanted to project Silent Laughter but there was also a plethora of easy grade and starred stuff to go at - i wasn't planning on jumping on a 7b until i had got my head in gear and done a bit of sport climbing.

After a bit of random driving through Giggleswick school's grounds (which i will say is a very nice looking school an i would like a job there) we arrived and slogged up to the bottom of the cliff. Being adventurous I got straight on a 5+ called Match Play - a stiff crux move led to the top and my first sport for a long time. jenny didn't really like this and i think she got a bit worried thinking about the prospect of a week in France limited to grade 5 and below but i think it was just the cruxy nature of the route that didn't suit. But better things were to come. Jenny led and then i did the route Cygneture Tune - another 5+ which i didn't think much to but then  got on the 3* Mute San a 6a+ at the right hand end of the crag -  I was pulling through the crux sequence and remember thinking - "I could get into this" It was a brilliant climb! I then did the 6a+ "swansong" which was also good value - jenny also led this one and i think it gave her some inspiration for le tour de Francais. I finished up Black Swan Rising a 6b which ended up not what i needed. I found myself holding the top block on sloper, nowt for my feet and a meter above the bolt, my irrational fear of sport climbing came flooding back and i panicked and grabbed the lower off - annoyed as there was a jug 3 inches to the right that i had been blinded to in my panic.. Jenny top-roped it clean and said i shouldn't have mentioned the pulling on bolts but I cannot lie about my achievements or lack of them!  Not disappointed at all with the day as i got out and made a start- i also learnt to use my gri-gri (thanks Jenny for being guinea pig)  - I'm really keen to get out again and try and get in the zone but need to find willing Limestone partners - keen for after work limestone too! D of E ing a lot of weekends now so will have to grab what opportunities present themselves. Should i go out today? I think maybe i will!

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