Foredale psyche!

 

Dom from UKC on the 7a "8resin"

I made plans to go to Foredale Quarry today after posting on the Internet for partners. Sean and Dom met me early doors and we got on with it. I warmed up on The Wandering warthog (5+) supposedly the best of its grade on Limestone but despite it being a repeat i am yet to be convinced, We then did the pretty good 6a of social realism which has some brilliant holds pulling on the old drill holes but the usual scrambley top detracts a bit and seems a bit pointless and out of character. Sean wanted to lead Skulduggery so after he had done i went up to take the clips out, again a bit scrambley. We then moved onto the main wall, like a silly boy i forgot to take my new 70m rope - my 50m was too short for pretty much every climb there so thankfully Dom came to the rescue with his 60, which only just did as on one occasion the end pretty much popped through the gri-gri on touch down. We did the pretty good but perhaps a little easier than the grade suggests? "the real slim shady" at 6b+ had lots of dusty ledges followed by a single crux but was good to warm up. Then Pot Black which is 3* and excellent value started to get me interested as it had a lovely cruxy sequence on small holds and awkward foot holds. I committed to a move left  pulling on a  crimp, and testing  a higher hold, it was gash so i tried to return to the crimp but i had lost it..(the holds are quite hard to find anyway at Foredale) panic setting in i eventually found some combination of pinches and after a warble to "watch me" managed to find the better holds above. Dom led it after me and went right finding a big hold - i think i made it harder for myself, perfect example of why red-pointing is easy.
Sean did the arete of  dark Secrets  - at 5+ it was pretty tough actually with slopey holds and not the jugs i longed for.

I was feeling good and we spied a 3* 17m 7a a little walk away so we wandered over to look at Resin 8. It looked technical, with small holds but seemed well bolted so worst case i could dog my way up it. I set about on an on-sight attempt although i had already decided not to knacker myself in if i couldn't do it. I surprised myself and made rapid progress up to a sideways flake, which i chickened out of holding and hung on the bolt. I realised what to do and then finished it off - slightly annoyed that i had thrown away a potential on-sight due to lack of confidence. I lowered and immediately top roped it whilst i had a slight pump - doing it cleanly I felt ready for the red-point so sat down for 15 minutes whilst Dom had a go on top rope.- he crushed it and rapidly it was my go on the sharp end. I set off and it went really smoothly moving through the crux  effortlessly ( i think having clips in helped a lot) - i got to a section which i hadn't found hard before and thought i was going to blow it but a bit of foot readjustment and i was though and onto the easier terrain above. Very pleased - i think this is my 4th 7a. the fact that i did it pretty much straight away means i definitely should be upping my game. Apart from anything else I'm pleased i got on it, half the barrier for me has been attempting these  things. I was so surprise how much easier it felt on red-point. I actually really want to go to Malham now, just need to find some willing partners.

Hope to get out again soon but lots coming up at weekends now..