Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Sunday, 22 May 2011

Twistleton Trad

Me on the Candle HVS 5b (Pretty cold looking Ingleborough in the background (or Whernside?)

We went to Selside this weekend to celebrate lots of birthdays including Jude's big 3  0. The weather was looking dubious with rain forecast for 4 on Saturday and Sunday looking rubbish. fullstop. We had a few celebratory beers on Friday night and got to bed late but up on Saturday psyche was split with some people riding bikes, some running and a small core Me, jim, Johnny and Jo up for some climbing. We headed to Twistleton for some trad fun - I have been a few times and like the short bouldery nature of the routes - akin to grit bouldering!

We headed to an area with a few VS and below and i decided i wanted to solo to get some mileage in - i tried Timbuktu a 2* HS but down-climbed as wouldn't commit to the jams and slopey holds whilst not warmed up so i did a few other things including quite a good bouldery HVS  with no * but required a committing approach rocking up onto a small foot hold with hands for balance.  Jim had finished leading timbuktu - I wasn't going to do it but then i got abuse saying it would have to be recorded as a DNF so i manned up and sent it packing.

We headed across into the wind tunnel as i wanted to have a crack at the 2* HVS 5b called The candle. I have looked at this before and really liked the line, the photo in the guide makes it look good too. After equipping my belayer with lots of jackets so he looked like he was on a himalyan expedition I set off placing gear high before reversing to a ledge called the ground for a rest. I then set off and decided to have  confident approach on the traverse - it felt great - a lovely not immediately obvious sequence and a committing pull on bog holds i reached the ledge. a couple f easy moves led to the top. I think soloing early in the day was good for me here as it gave e the bold approach i needed to ensure no pump. I seconded Jim up Candle crack another HVS which was a more traditional proposition although some of the moves were  on glass like holds and required some flexibility.  Johnny wanted to lead a VS called Thornton Wall around the corner. It looked like a cruxy start with big holds to the top s i soloed it - again it felt great although the top was a little worrying as there wasn't much to pull on and relied on your feet on smallish holds. I didn't know it was called Thornton wall before the climb but afterwards when i found out i was pleased to have beaten at least one Thornton's challenge this week.

It started to rain so we made our way down and back to the hut for some more beers, We went for a walk up to Alum pot to have a look. I kept hearing the 999 theme tune go around in my head as we teetered around the edge on the muddy path in pub shoes with a bottle of beer in hand. Lopking down from the ab point it was quite a long way down and so we decided it was probably best to leave the Trogladites. I returned to the beers and mead (thank you Andy and Julie)  but the week had clearly taken its toll on me and i was asleep by half ten. Plans were made to finished the grit ticklist in the next few weeks so i hope to get out and about on yorkshire grit for trad and soloing adventure although perusing the tick-list i was reminded I still have to do Frensis Direct, Squirell Crack at Hawkcliffe, Jams to the slaughter!! but pleased that unlike Jim I have done the Waster and thin red line pump fests that i don't need to worry about! Watch this space. I think we have 6 months to complete the 3* challenge.




Jo balancing on the edge of Alum Pot - remembering '3 points of contact'
Jim balancing to look down the hole

Relieved as we move away from the big hole in the ground

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