A view into Trollers Gill The Jim Grin is on the left and the 6c i did through the overlap on the right
M was there along with Dave junior a few others, the warm up was taken so we decide just to get on Jim Grin. BIG MISTAKE! I put the clips in but should have realised by the amount of pump i got pulling on draws that it wasn't going to happen. Huw struggled to top rope as did I and we gave it up as a bad idea. Lessons learned, a.) Don't warm up on something harder than you've ever lead and b.) stay well clear of this steep stuff!!
Feeling pretty dejected Dave M had suggested a couple of 6c's that might suit us boulderisers that have spent too much time on the grit so i got on the 4 bolt wonder of the Booker prize 6c. I managed the cruxy bouldery moves all the way to the last bolt but then once again pump overcame which is a pretty disgraceful show of stamina.I lowered and after Huw top roped it i had a redpoint attempt, failing again i lowered and finally got the top moves next go. Pretty poor show to be honest but at least I got a tick and recognised 2 things.
1.) Do not warm up solely going bolt to bolt on your 'project'
2.)Choose a 7b project that is cruxy and not steep and staminafest!
The imaginative and aptly named Dog's Dinner buttress. Enough reason to return to the UK Ali?
Huw playing on a section rammed with 7a's but sadly filthy neglected and dusty.
Huw happy to leave? I blame the friction, steepness and god damn limestone.. Why can't it be nice like Gritstone bouldering!!!!
5 comments:
Surprising as it may sound, that buttress doesn't tempt me back! Oh, and i'm not sure you can describe a 15m route as a "stamina-fest"!! ;-) [And isn't it 7a?!]
But on a positive note - I'm very proud of you for persevering with the limestone. Work your weaknesses and get back on it for training!
You're proud of me Ali.. I have a tear in my eye!
The day you do your first 7b I'll get a photo of you framed and hung on my wall. And that's a promise.
Right then... Time for some training!
I did at least get to the top (twice) without pulling on the quickdraws ;-) which considering I haven't put a harness on for nearly 3 years was better than I was expecting!
I'd forgotten how depressing it is to be unable to do easy moves on huge holds when you're pumped, I think this is why I prefer bouldering...
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