Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Sunday, 16 October 2011

Hitting a brick wall!

Johnny was happy to head out to Brimham today so we headed off to conquer the remaining 3* routes, Frensis direct and minions way. It was a nice day and we headed straight to Frensis Direct just to check it was dry the intention being to start on Minions way. I felt good so decided it was now or never so racked up ready for the off.


Arriving at the end of the VS bit i felt fresh, moving higher I got some crimps and could not work out what to do, energy drained i slumped onto a cam.
Round 2: same again, Round 3: i try a jam and crimp but have no ooomf left - i fall. My arms and fingers are destroyed fatigued, one last go Round 4 I'm now climbing the VS very inefficiently, get my foot up in the top crack but I'm off again!


AAARGGHH> what do i need to do? I think i know the sequence now but today i had no power in reserve for the top move. Maybe I didn't warm up right but I'm thinking the fingerboard session yesterday may have destroyed me after all i was fingerboarding to failure.. I'm really disappointed my Nemesis is putting up a hell of a fight. If i go fresh will i get it?

Voicing my frustration and beating frensis direct for being so cruel

After 2 hours of belay duty - thank you Johnny we head over to do the Pig Traverse, Johnny climbs it although not feeling the mojo perhaps due to 2 hours of belay duty, i follow but knackered I am, the holds feel awful but just about make it along - worrying seen as i soloed this last year!

All motivation from me is gone, Johnny not feeling much better we head back to the car via the heart shaped slab, John has a play - i feel sick at the thought of putting weight on my arms and opt for photography before making our way back to Leeds.


I'm Sad

 Kangaroo wall - checked out home to a nice looking VS and soft E1?

Johnny on a problem on heart shape slab - my arms can only just operate a camera at this point

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