Almscliff but not the usual!

A beautiful day at Almscliff

I was up early this morning which was impressive considering the amount of beer at the Leeds beer festival last night. I had a great night on the annual family outing followed by slap up curry. Anyway I did my usual procrastination in the morning, Jo headed off to Malham which puts me to shame really as I know that's where i should be but eventually after a bit of phoning around i discovered nobody come out to play although Johnny was at some limestone esoterica, i couldn't be bothered with the drive so had a little look at the guides. Eventually the usual happened and i set off for Almscliff  on my own but with some focus, I planned what I as going to do in order to stop the usual failing to repeat demon wall roof etc. It was a beautiful day, a bit breezy but the sun was shining and the friction was still pretty good.

I headed up to the big slabby boulder below wall of horrors as there is a 7a i wanted to try. I warmed up on a few problems i hadn't done before, a 4+ and 2 6a's which were worryingly difficult ( i took 2 goes on the 4+).  I then went up to have a crack at the wall of horrors traverse left to right as i had only really tried the harder Niche right to left traverse before. I got on and made light work of the starting moves which are just swinging between big holds. the crux though shut me down, I was trying some sequence that well basically didn't work then a passing old-boy stopped to do a few problems on the pinnacle to the left. He showed me how he had done it with some low beta and a few different holds. I managed to get it to work but couldn't get it wired - i started to rip a chunk out of my fingers so decided to call it a day but the new beta will be remembered when i come back. I dropped down to try the traverse on the slabby boulder. the opening moves were doable and i worked it in sections getting to a really cool section with heel hooks and opposing holds. I worked it a lot and eventually found a sequence that worked although i couldn't link it into the 6a arete at the end as i was all wrong handed. I was losing more skin so took a video to remember how good it was and headed down to the Virgin boulder.

 

On the middle of the slabby boulder traverse 7a

 

A move on throwing for the big hold. I fluffed linking into the easy arete at the end

Middle section of slabby boulder traverse in all its glory

I had a go at a problem up the front of the virgin which goes at 7b and i knew i have managed the opening move before. I made moderate progress on this managing to hold the crimp for longer than before although it was quite painful jamming that right hand in and actually got some blood out of me. The video was actually my best attempt but it was a bit of a curious finger lock which I couldn't really replicate each go but was crucial in order to get the crimp static. Looking at the video i don't think i got a full crimp and didn't get the toe heel lock that holds you in - but i need a spotter for that anyway.

Mis-timing the photo - the crimpy problem goes up to the small hold above and right of me.

Me on an attempt on the crimpy problem on front of Virgin boulder  7b

I headed up to Underhand just to remind myself whether it was do-able. I had forgotten all of the beta apart from some foot lock shannanigans so got on with it un-encumbered with 'instructions' I tried a few things and found myself reaching good holds although I was pretty stretched out. I videoed it but I also had a go afterwards and got it a bit better transferring my right foot into some nifty heel jam but needed a spotter as i missed the hold i was throwing for... hmmmm! Maybe Underhand is up my street? Or maybe my new sequence is doomed to failure.. Whatever i am psyched to get back on it!!

Attempting to lank Underhand 7b

Me on an attempt with the lank method of Underhand 7b

So lots of projects now - some doable, some I need some help working i think in terms of moral support and advice on beta but onwards and upwards.