Psyche-meter

Status: 3* needs a kick start especially as now in receipt of proof copies of new guide chapter. Slow start to bouldering season as cold but wet !


Tuesday, 21 December 2010

Xmas holiday grit

Huw warming up on my 'tick of the week'

Since having a lot of sleep over the weekend to get over Saturday's hangover, i have managed to get out on the grit twice with Huw. On Monday we headed up to Almscliff and had the best conditions ever. I managed to repeat Demon Wall Roof after several failed attempts over the last 2 years. I felt really strong on it and the conditions were mint so i got it first go which i thought meant crushing time would begin. I then sieged Dreamland with every combination of down jacket, t-shirt and beanie on or off possible. Ironically the closest attempt was a tops off for power session but sadly it was too cold for more than one of those. Huw then showed me a cold corner of Almscliff that i hadn't seen before where there might be the softest 7b in the world OR more likely there are some special rules that we don't know. I might go back for a try though because then at least i can claim a 7b one of my new year targets that have sadly not happened. I brushed the snow off a few projects and headed home.


Tuesday despite assurances yesterday that we would drag ourselves out of bed and get out early doors i found myself at 1p.m at Norwood Edge up near the Hunter's Stones in Stainburn forest, I was very pessimistic about this place as i was sure it would be covered in snow and some bits were but my mood changed as we puled on the rough and sometimes brutal grit. We warmed up on the Diamond block and did a couple of problems on really cool holds. Then trecked over to a crimpy little block which had a number of problems that literally tore our skin to bits. Not prepared to be beaten by a V3 or at least lose skin on one, Huw tempted me down to a little roof with 2 7a problems on it. We climbed pocket wall on about third go, Huw did some powerful and short-arse cross through method whilst i lanked it to the top pocket. I'll take the 7a but in my #heart i know its probably only 6b. We then went up to look at the main event Falcon area. I decided i couldn't even pull on to Falcon (7a) as the holds were too small and i felt bunched. So i set to work on the Ruff traverse a long 6c left to right. Again i felt i was going nowhere until a change of plan and use of my lank enabled a good hold to be gained. Sadly Huw in his keenness to save me from breaking my ankle when i came off power spotted me a bit too much. I topped out but then realised i topped out in the wrong place anyway. doh 2 more attempts saw me tickling the finish hold but as the light faded so did my strength and i put it on my ticklist for next time.

A good two days out after about 3 weeks of poor weather and conditions, I hope i keep the motivation going for tomorrow as i always find it hard heading out on my own, perhaps with the two near to ?completion? projects at Almscliff and Norwood i'll summon the energy to head out on my tod..

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